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Tie Rod End Replacement To do this job you'll need a 15mm (or is it 14mm?) long socket (for the original end nuts), a 17mm long socket (for the new nuts) and torque wrench, two 19mm open-ended wrenches, a "pickle fork" tool and a hammer... and possibly a Dremel and cut-off disc if things get nasty. Notes: Torque specifications (from ST-09-7/81): Tie rod to steering knuckle: 36 Nm (26 ft-lb.) Tie rod lock nut: 65 Nm (48 ft-lb) 
These original tie rod ends are looking bad! 
Close-up of one bad end, drenched in Liquid Wrench in a futile attempt to loosen it up. 
These are the two common tools for removing the tie rod end. Believe it or not, simply hitting the bolt with a hammer probably won't yield satisfactory results (at least, it didn't do anything in my case!). On top: a "pickle fork" tool; on bottom: another removal tool. The tool on the bottom is worthless on the DeLorean, because the grips don't fit around the knuckle snugly enough and just slip off. The pickle fork was good at loosening up the tie rod end, then a solid whack with the hammer on the bolt popped it right off. The pickle fork is used by placing it between the knuckle and the tie rod end, then hitting the end with a hammer to wedge the tie rod end off. Get angry and hit the fork hard - that'll help get the job over with. Of course, you'll destroy whatever is left of the tie rod end in the process of using this tool... but hey, you're replacing it, right? 
Naturally there was something preventing my DeLorean from a full one-session recovery: this rack boot split :( It's time to order parts. 
This new boot, filled with a little Red Line 90W gear oil, will hopefully keep this steering rack in service for a while longer. 
That's much better. |
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